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Doris's Café

Called Doris’s, it occupies one side of what used to be a private home. The other side was a post office. A sign tacked to the restaurant door read “On parle Francais ici.” Doris is long gone. The restaurant is being run by her sister, Linda Daigle, and an all-female staff. It opens its doors every weekday at 5 am. At 11:30 that morning it is packed. Men in work clothes jammed all the tables, quietly speaking French. Sit at the counter, read the menu and order the New England boiled dinner, which virtually everyone else in the place was eating. Look around. Slogans cover the walls. “Be nice or leave,” read one. “This is not Burger King,” went another. “You don’t get it your way. You take it my way or you don’t get the damn thing.” And your personal favorite, “Fat is beautiful.” On a display case in front is a notice advertising something called “creton.” Creton is pork butt cooked long and slow and flavored with onions and cinnamon and is served on toast. It was heavenly!